Monster Baby Booties

This is a pattern that I developed from a picture of some booties that were knitted.  A friend of mine sent a picture of them to my phone and asked if I could make them for her. I took a quick glance at them and said sure no problem-o.  Later on when closely looking at them I shortly realized that they were knitted.  I do not knit.  I find it too complicated for my smallish brain so I figured that I could crochet them... Roughly nine consecutive days later, I had the pattern worked out.  My hands were sore and so was my smallish brain. It was grueling but it was worth it because I did it! I hope you enjoy them as much as I do... or as much as I will before I hand them off to my friend. 

Key:  Ch: chain.                         YO: yarn over              sc: single crochet            

Dc: Double crochet                    sl st: Slip stitch            inc: increase           

Hdc: Half double crochet

Supplies:  Yarn in two colors, pink for the mouth and the color of your choosing for the shoe.  White and black felt.  3.5 mm hook.  Pink felt and thread and needle.

Round 1:  Ch 5, YO, Insert hook into third ch from hook and dc, then increase in the next two stitches. around to make 6 dc.  Then continue around to the next side and inc in the next three stitches to make a total of 12 stitches.   Sl st to close round.

Round 2:  Ch 3, * dc twice in each st to make 24.  Sl st to close round.

Rounds 3-6:  Ch 3, *dc in each stitch around; makes 24

Rows 7-10:  Ch 3, dc 14, turn.

Row 11:  Ch 1, 5 sc in next 5 stitches.  Ch 3, 6 dc to make 7 dc, turn.

Row 12:  Ch 3, dc in each stitch across to make 7.

Row 13: Ch 1, hdc across.

Round 14: Sc in each stitch around to, making sure to joint the three edges together, sl st to close round and join the pink.  This row is going to even out your work, getting the shoe ready for the mouth.

Round 15:  Ch 1, sc around and sl st to join the round. 

Weave in all the ends and then take some matching thread and sew down the end of the yarn to hold it in.

Cut out eyes and sew together the pupil onto the eye.  Sew eye onto the shoe.  Weave in the pink and hold it down with some fabric glue.  Then take some matching thread and sew it down. 

Cut lining into the same basic shape of the shoe (before the edges were crocheted together).  Sew the lining so that the edges are together then sew the lining into the shoe. 

As always if you have questions feel free to ask and do not sell these or post this pattern without linking this page!

Picture Frame Collage

I found these picture frames at a local thrift store. They ranged in price from $0.75 to $1.50. I decided to get them and see what fun I could have with them.










1. I sanded them down to remove any deformities. Since they were second hand they had many scratches and dings in them. Some may prefer to keep these to give extra character. I was looking for a more uniform look and since they are all different frames, I wanted them to all have a newer look.

2. After sanding, I applied a base coat of white paint. You can use a primer or just regular white paint. I have not found much difference. If you are using the frame on a table top or a high traffic area, primer may keep the paint sticking to the wood longer than white paint will.

3. While waiting for the paint to dry I cleaned the glass in the frames. Since the frames were mostly older, they had a thick film of dust on them. You can use a glass cleaner to clean them but I have found that a solution of 2 parts water and 1 part cider vinegar works very well without streaking.

4. I painted a base coat of black (or color of your choosing). It will take more than one coat to cover the wood completely. If there are unpainted spots on the surface this can lead to peeling and it will not look proffessional.

5. While the first coat of paint is drying I used my die cutting machine to cut out the images. For image size, you will measure the glass of the frame and decide what size of image you would like from there. If you are going to use patterned paper, I find it is best to use very subtle patterns. If you cannot resist a strong pattern, try alternating the prints. Use a bold pattern for the background a faint pattern for the design. Using a bigger pattern paper for the cutout can be distracting. It can also make it so the pattern on the paper is lost.

If you do not have a die cutter, you can use pictures of flowers, or birds, or free stencils for download online. After you have the images of your liking, take the glass from the frame and trace it on the back of your background paper. If you have a square or rectangular picture then you can just measure and cut with a paper cutter. After you have the traced image on the back of your patterned paper, cut it out.

6. After the first layer of paint is dry, you will want to paint a second coat. Make sure you cover it well. I have often just tried covering the spots that didn't get covered well the first time but inevitably, I always miss spots. I like to use a nice even layer so that the paint doesn't gather in one spot or dry unevenly.

7. After the second coat is dry, I like to take another color and gently dry brush it over the detail work on the frame. This makes the detail pop and gives it more visual interest.

8. Once the frames are completely dry, assemble and hang.

Reupholstering a Chair

I have reupholstered this chair. I found it at the local thrift store. When I saw it, I almost passed by it because it was just a boring blue fabric but when I took a closer look, I noticed it had a really simple frame that gave a retro modern style. When you buy a second hand chair, make sure to check that all the joints are solid, i.e. that the wood is not split at any joints, that they are not wobbly, and that they come firmly together. Also, you want to make sure that the cushions are in good condition. You can replace them but in order to give it a more professional look, you want to use the originals.

Supplies you will need:

• Staple Gun
• Quilt Batting
• Fabric
• Metal Upholstery Buttons (make sure kit if you have never bought these)
  
• Power Drill
• Decorative Upholstery Tacks (If back of chair shows)
• Spray Adhesive & Fabric Glue
• Screw Driver (flat head or Phillips)
• Rubber Mallet
  

1. First, I removed the seat from the frame. This particular chair had four screws holding the seat on and three holding the back on. The seat cushion and the back cushion on this chair were connected. This made it easier to reassemble in the end. Do not throw out the fabric or the cheesecloth (if applicable) because you will use it as a pattern.

2. After I removed the fabric I used the pieces as a pattern for the new fabric. This chair has three upholstery buttons on it. This helps give the chair some shape once it is fully upholstered. I used the previous back cushion fabric as a guide in marking the location on my new fabric for the buttons. You can use a fabric pencil or a regular ball point pen to do this. Repeat steps for the back for re-attaching the chair to the frame.

3. Once I had the pieces cut out, I began attaching them to the chair. I laid the batting out smoothly over the foam cushion. I attached the batting to the chair. Using the manual staple gun took some getting used to. There is a tension adjuster on it. I tightened the tension all the way and tested an area that was hidden to see how far it would go into the wood. The harder the wood, the stronger the tension you will need.

4. I Covered the upholstery buttons in a matching fabric. There will be instructions on the the packaging. Then I threaded some strong twine through the whole in the button.

5. The fabric is the next step. I started with the seat back because that was easiest for me. Again you want to make sure to lay the fabric out smoothly. I stapled one complete side and then did the opposite, smoothing after each side and then did the same for the seat cushion.

6. Once the back cushion was upholstered, I took a power drill, with the drill bit already in motion, I drilled three holes in the areas I marked previously. Make sure to have the drill going before you touch it to the fabric. If you do not, the fabric will just get caught on the drill head and rip. I took an embroidery needle and threaded the twine, attached to the button, and then pulled the twine through the drill holes. I took the staple gun and in a zig zag pattern, stapled the twine to the back of the chair. Repeat process for other buttons.

7. Once I had the seat and the seat back covered, I began ironing the edges of the back of the seat back fabric. To make a good line, you will want to use steam. Once those were folded, I just used fabric glue, you can use any brand of your choosing, and then followed the fold. Once that was dry, I attached the fabric and the batting together with spray adhesive. I used this on only the back of the seat back so that when I was attaching it later, the two pieces wouldn't slip around.

8. I used the spay adhesive to attach the batting and fabric to the back of the chair to hold it in place while I attached the decorative upholstery nails. Once the glue was tacky and holding the fabric in place I used a ruler and marked the areas I wanted to use the nails in. I chose to space mine because I liked the look better. You can always use them all the way around. I took the drill, using a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the nail, and drilled holes through the wood and fabric. Again make sure the drill is going and in full speed before you touch it to the fabric. You will want to make these starter holes because the decorative nail heads are weaker than regular ones and you can break them too easily. Once I had drilled starter holes for all of the upholstery tacks, I can began hammering them in.

9. Once the nails were in place I drilled the holes in the back for the screws to go through and then attached the chair to the frame.

Harry Potter and the Crochet Pals

Here are my Harry Potter crochet dolls. They are probably the cutest thing I have ever seen. The pattern is pretty easy. Here is the pattern for free. Feel free to make these little guys and give them away but absolutely do not sell them or post my pattern without giving a link to this page.

The Head:

Ch 2

6 Sc in 2nd Ch from hook.

Inc in each Sc to make 12

Inc, Sc around to make 18

Inc, Sc 2 around to make 24

Sc 24 in each Sc 2 times, for three rows

Sc, sc, Dec around to make 18
Sc, Dec to make 12,

Begin stuffing head and adding on embellishments, i.e. sewing on button eyes, sewing mouth, freckles and glasses, and hair using lace pin.

Dec around to make 6

Slip stitch to close.

Body:

Ch 2

6 Sc in second ch from hook

Inc in each sc

Inc, Sc Around to make 18

Inc, 2 sc around to make 24

Sc in each sc around to make 24, repeat row twice

Inc, 3 sc around to make 30

Sc in each sc around, repeat row twice

Inc, 4 sc around to make 36

Sc in each sc around, repeat row twice

Inc, 5 sc around to make 42

Sc in each sc around, repeat row twice

For the flat bottom of the body:

Ch 2

6 Sc in 2nd ch from hook

Inc around to make 12

Inc, 1 Sc around to make 18

Inc, 2 sc around to make 24

Inc, 3 sc around to make 30

Inc, 4 sc around to make 36

Inc, 5 sc around to make 42

Stuff body and attach bottom to body.

Robes:

Ch 48 and join last ch with first ch. Make sure that rows are not twisted.

Sc each ch around

Repeat twice

6 sc, Dec around to make 42

Sc in each sc around

Sc in each sc around

Sc in each sc around

5 Sc, Dec around to make 36

Sc in each sc around

Sc in each sc around

Sc in each sc around

4 Sc, Dec around to make 30

29 Sc, turn

ch 1, 29 Sc, turn

ch 1, 29 Sc, turn

3 Sc, Dec around to make 24

Sc 24 around.

Scarves:

Using embroidery floss,

Ch 9, flip
sc in each ch

repeat row till you have four rows then join different color. Keep making four rows of each color til you have a long enough scarf.

That is how you make the Harry Potter dolls.

Cozy Crochet Cowl

Materials:

- Yarn in size 6 in whatever color makes your heart sing or, you know, whatever color will go best with your wardrobe. You should be using just about the whole ball of yarn.

- 9 mm Crochet hook

- Sharp and trusty scissors

- Thread in color of your heart singing yarn and a needle.

- Big buttons with large button holes.

- A couple straight pins.

Term Guide:

ch= chain

sc= single crochet

dc= double crochet

sl st= slip stitch

If you don’t know a stitch, don’t freak out! There is a great website with wonderful pictures on how to do all these stitches. Here is the link:

www.stitchdiva.com/

Row 1

Ch 50.

Row 2

Join Ch with sl st being careful not to twist yarn.

Row 3

Ch 1 and then sc in each ch around; making 50 sc.

Row 4

Ch 2 (counts as first dc) then dc in each sc around; making 50 dc.

Rows 5-8

Continue rows 3 and 4 three more times.

Row 9

Ch 1 then sc in each dc around; making 50 sc.

To Finish:

Sl st and pull yarn through. If you have a lot of yarn left over, you will cut a tail about 4 inches long before you pull it all the way through.

Weave in ends and sew in place with some thread in the same color as your yarn. Some people like to use fabric glue to keep their work from unweaving at the ends. I don’t like to on things I wear because it’s scratchy and it smells bad. Who really wants to walk around smelling like fabric glue? Not me.

Try on the cowl and figure out where you would like the buttons placed. Use a straight pin to mark where you would like them. When removing the cowl be careful not to stab yourself in the eye with the straight pins. It’s best to insert pin so that, from the front, you can see both ends of the pin.

Sew on buttons.

Congratulations you have completed a cute and cozy cowl. I hope you love it and stay warm!

Grandma, What Big Ears You Have

I am going to show you how to make these super cute dolls. I made up the pattern myself. All of the patterns on this site are originals from me. I hope you love these as much as I do. The would make a great present for a daughter or granddaughter... or if you are selfish like me, you can just keep them!

Little Red Riding Hood Crochet Pattern

Head:

Row One: Ch 2.

Row Two: Sc six in the second ch from hook.

Row Three: Sc two in each sc from previous row.

Row Four: Sc in first stitch of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 18 stitches.

Row Five: Sc in first two stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 24 stitches.

Row Six: Sc in first three stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 30 stitches.

Row Seven: Sc in first four stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 36 stitches.

Row Eight: Sc in first five stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 42 stitches.

Rows Nine through Ten: Sc in each stitch on previous row.

Sew on eyes and embroider eyelashes, mouth, and freckles.

Row Eleven: Sc in first five stitches of previous row then decrease; repeat around to make 36 stitches.

Row Twelve: Sc in first four stitches of previous row then decrease; repeat around to make 30 stitches.

Row Thirteen: Sc in first three stitches of previous row then decrease; repeat around to make 24 stitches.

Row Fourteen: Sc in first two stitches of previous row then decrease; repeat around to make 18 stitches.

Row Fifteen: Sc in first stitch of previous row then decrease; repeat around to make 12 stitches.

Stuff head to your liking.

Body:

Row One: Ch 2.

Row Two: Sc six in the second ch from hook.

Row Three: Sc two in each sc from previous row.

Row Four: Sc in first stitch of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 18 stitches.

Row Five: Sc in first two stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 24 stitches.

Row Six: Sc in first three stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 30 stitches.

Row Seven and Eight : Sc in each stitch around

Row Nine: Sc in first four stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 36 stitches.

Row Ten and Eleven: Sc in each stitch around.

Row Twelve: Sc in first five stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 42 stitches.

Row Thirteen – Seventeen: Sc in each stitch around.

Bottom:

Row One: Ch 2.

Row Two: Sc six in the second ch from hook.

Row Three: Sc two in each sc from previous row.

Row Four: Sc in first stitch of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 18 stitches.

Row Five: Sc in first two stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 24 stitches.

Row Six: Sc in first three stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 30 stitches.

Row Seven: Sc in first four stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 36 stitches.

Row Eight: Sc in first five stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat around to make 42 stitches.

Attach bottom with yarn by slip stitching around. When you get close to closing the round, stuff.

Ruffle:

Sc in first stitch in the bottom ridge then hdc, dc, & hdc all in next stitch, sc in next stitch, and slip stitch. Repeat this pattern around to make a ruffle pattern

Cloak:

Hood:

Ch 15, sc in second chain from hook and repeat in the next 13 stitches. Then insert your hook into that first ch (with the knot from your original ch) and do a sc crochet. Repeat for the next 13 stitches. Ch 1, flip, and repeat this pattern 12 times.

Body of Cloak:

Row 1, Ch 1 and Sc across.

Row 2: Sc in first stitch, increase in next; repeat to make 18

Row 3: Sc in first two stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat to make 24 stitches.

Row 4: Sc in first three stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat to make 30 stitches.

Row 5: Sc in first four stitches of previous row then increase in next; repeat to make 36 stitches.

Row 6-10: Sc in each across.

Arms: Ch 13. Sc in second ch from hook.

Sc in first ch (as you did on hood) and then sc in each stitch after that.

Apron:

Row One: Ch 9 then sc in second ch from hook. Sc in each ch after that.

Row Two – Three: Sc in each stitch.

Row Four: Sc, inc, repeat pattern across.

Row Five: Sc, Sc, inc and repeat pattern across.

Row Six: Sc, Sc, Sc, inc and repeat pattern across. Then chain 12 to make neck loop and attach with thread and needle.

Basket:

Row 1: Ch 2 then Sc six in second ch from hook.

Row 2: Increase in each stitch around.

Row 3: Sc, Inc, and repeat pattern around to make 18.

Row 4: Sc in each back loop around. When you have finished you will see a ridge around. This will flip the stitches up to make the basket shape.

Row 5-8: Sc in each stitch around then ch 12 and slip stitch in opposite side of basket to make handle.

Wolf Crochet Pattern

Head:

Ch 2, then sc 6 in second ch from hook.

Inc in each stitch to make 12

Inc in each stitch to make 24

Sc two, Inc around to make 36

Sc in each stitch around

Attach eyes.

Sc two, dec around to make 24

Dec around to make 12

Dec around to make 6 then sl st.

Embroider smile and stuff.

Ears:

Ch four then sc in second ch from hook and continue all the way around ch like you did for the hood for the cloak. Sew onto head.

Snout:

Ch two, in second ch from hook sc six.

Increase in each stitch around to make 12

Sc in each stitch around.

Inc in each stitch around to make 24

Sc in each stitch around, sl st.

Embroider nose and mouth. Stuff snout. Attach to head matching smile up with snout. Use pliable jewelry wire for the glasses and sew onto snout.

Body:

Ch two, sc six in second ch from hook.

Sc six

Sc in each stitch to make six.

Sc, sc, inc, around to make nine.

Sc in each stitch to make nine.

Sc, Sc, inc around to make 12.

Sc in each around to make 12.

Inc around to make 24.

Sc in each stitch to make 24.

Sc, sc, inc around to make 36.

Sc in each stitch to make 36.

Sc in each stitch to make 36.

Sc in each stitch to make 36.

Sc in back loops all the way around. The back loops will be the ones that are on the inside (looking up into the cone from the bottom) of the round you are making You will see a ridge start to form.

Sc, Sc, Dec around to make 24.

Dec around to make 12

Dec around to make 6.

Stuff

Dec around to close last stitch will be a sl st.

Hind Legs:

Ch two, sc six in second ch from hook.

Inc around to make 12.

Inc around to make 24

Sc in each stitch to make 24.

Feet:

Ch 13, Sc in second ch from hook and all the way around to make 24 stitches.

Ch one, flip and sc in each of the 24 stitches.

Sew feet and legs together then sew onto body of wolf. Sew head and body together.

Tail:

Ch two, sc four in second ch from hook.

Sc in each stitch to make four.

Sc, sc, inc to make six.

Sc in each stitch to make six.

Sc in each stitch to make six.

Sc in each stitch to make six.

Sc, sc, inc to make nine.

Sc in each stitch to make nine.

Sc, sc, inc to make 12.

Sc in each stitch to make 12.

Sc in each stitch to make 12.

Sc, sc, inc to make 15.

Sc in each stitch to make 15.

Sc in each stitch to make 15.

Sc in each stitch to make 15.

Stuff

Sc, Dec around to and keep going until the tail comes to a close with the last stitch being a sl st. Sew tail on.

Hat:

Ch two, sc six in second ch from hook.

Inc in each stitch to make 12.

Inc in each stitch to make 24.

Sc in each stitch to make 24.

Dec in each stitch to make 12, sl st to close.

Sew on flower and then sew to the top of the head.

Shawl:

Ch nine then sc eight across starting at the second ch from hook.

Ch 3 (this will be your first double crochet) then dc in each stitch across to make eight dc. Make 12 rows then sl st to close.

Sew on button and then attach to wolf.

Particle Board Furniture Fix

I own a T.V. stand, side tables, and coffee table from Ikea. They are made out of particle board and then covered with dark wood laminate. For the first year or so I loved them. Then I got a cat and his claws scratched the surface of it. We left a big cup of water on the table overnight and came down the next morning to a bunch of bubbles on the surface of the table! Panic set in and I ran and got some towels to dry up the mess but the damage was done. What to do about the bubbles. I let them stay for a while because I had no clue what to do. Any moisture on the table only made them worse. They got bigger and began to crack. Now not only was my table bumpy but it had the particle board showing through too. I decided to take some black pain and cover up the light particle board color underneath but that was only a temporary fix. Eventually I came up with this idea and I think that it will work out great!

Here is a list of the supplies you'll need to fix your table:

• Xacto knife and extra blades
• Wood filler
• Putty knife
• Self-adhesive vinyl sheets (You can get purchase patterned versions too and cover your whole table if it is really badly damaged along the sides as well.
• Black sharpie
• Number two grit sandpaper
  
• Primer or acrylic paint

Wipe down your table really well before beginning. After the table has dried, take the Xacto knife and cut around the bubble. Make sure to get all the way around the raised surface but do not cut far from the bubble because the stuff that has not bubbled is much harder to remove. Once you have cut around the bubble slide your knife under the laminate and lift it off. Then take the knife and shave the particle board until the bubble is completely gone.

The next step will be to take a duster and wipe away all of the excess dust that has gathered on top of your table.

Wash your hands and dry them well. You don't want to get any particles mixed in with the wood filler.

After your hands are dry, use the wood filler accordingly. There will be instructions on the back of the tube or bucket. I did find it helpful to squirt the filler onto my putty knife and then spread it over the hole or crack like butter onto bread. Make sure to use even steady pressure with the putty knife because you want a smooth surface. I also found it helpful to use my finger for some of the smaller spots. You may need to repeat this process on some of the spots to make a level surface.

Let these spots dry for about 15 minutes and then take a damp cloth and wipe away the excess wood filler then let this dry overnight to make sure you have a hard surface.

The next step is to sand it down with your number two sand paper and then paint over the spots with the primer paint. Then to make sure you have a nice smooth surface that is the same color as your table, you can take some paint that matches the color of your table and paint over it.

While the paint is drying you can take this opportunity to cut out your self adhesive vinyl. If you are covering your whole table then you will want to measure it out and make sure that you have enough to cover it. I bought some from JoAnns called Domestic bliss DECOR Decorative trim. They have it in all sorts of colors and patterns. I originally did the dots on my table because the damage wasn't so bad but now I am re-doing it and covering it in this super cute vinyl paper.

With the dots, I used my Cricut to cut out the dots in various sizes. If you do not have a Cricut or a dye cutter, you can just use a bowl or other various round things in your home as a stencil for the different size dots.
After the paint is dry you can peel the paper off the back of the sticker and lay them down. Be sure to use something to smooth out the bubbles. Then just enjoy your beautiful new table!